On July 4, 2015, the Burgundy Climats were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site under the category of “Cultural Landscapes.” This achievement was the culmination of ten years of work for the region and its representatives, led by Mr. Aubert de Vilaine, an iconic figure of the region and co-owner of the Domaine de La Romanée-Conti.
But what exactly does one mean by “Climats” in Burgundy?
Climats are born from the natural conditions of the soil, their exposure to the sun or wind, and the work of men who have shaped, revealed, and classified them throughout a long history dating back to the Gallo-Roman era. This unique “Climat” specificity is unlike anything else in the world. It doesn’t refer to weather but rather to the quality of the soil and the concept of “terroir.”
There are currently 1,247 Climats spread over approximately 14,000 hectares of vineyards on the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits. A line can be drawn from Dijon to about 20 kilometers south of Beaune to represent the distribution of these Climats. Geological changes and human intervention have played a decisive role over the ages in elevating Burgundy as a world-renowned wine region.
The Geological Mosaic of Burgundy’s Climats
Colline de Corton
Soil and subsoil play an essential role in the classification of the parcels. We take a leap back 30 million years to when tectonic plate movements caused the rise of the Alps, creating a shockwave. The Bresse Plateau collapsed, shaping the relief of the Côtes and Hautes Côtes.
170 million years ago, Burgundy was underwater. Numerous sedimentary layers, including marine deposits, are the result of these collapses and uplifts. This diversity of soils is so remarkable that it is often referred to as a “millefeuille” (layer cake).
The main geological fault has brought layers of limestone, clay, and marl to the surface. If we look more closely, the geological structure of the Côte perfectly illustrates the term “mosaic,” due to the numerous satellite faults of the main fault, which divide and juxtapose geological layers of different ages or compositions.
Regarding grape varieties, the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy find their best expression in well-drained, marly, limestone soils. As for the great Chardonnays, they are often found in limestone but more clay-rich soils. The expression of certain crus changes as the proportion of clay varies in the soil.
The Rich History of Burgundy’s Climats
And what about the vine itself? Written traces of vines dating back to the 1st century have been found in Gevrey-Chambertin. In 2,000 years, several phases have occurred that today make Burgundy’s Climats renowned worldwide.
Christianity played a key role in the development and classification of the different Climats. Religious communities in Burgundy were often gifted land by local nobility. They established large estates, which they expanded by purchasing new plots. The largest estates belonged to two communities: the Cistercian monks of the Abbey of Cîteaux and the Cluniac monks of the Abbey of Cluny. These monks gradually began producing quality wines due to the care they took in viticulture and winemaking. Each abbey pursued research to ensure high standards and maintain their reputations. They also classified the Climats using a model still in place today.
Over time, Burgundy wines became a major political and economic asset. By the 15th century, Burgundy wines had crossed France’s borders, as shown by this poster from Clos Vougeot. The monks were also responsible for constructing enclosures, or “clos,” to delimit their land plots, building numerous walls to prevent soil erosion. If you walk through the vineyards today, you may come across stone shelters called “Cabottes,” which were used for storing tools.
The work carried out since the Gallo-Roman period, along with the environmental characteristics of the vineyard, has led to a historic naming system for the parcels.
There are four main categories for naming Climats:
- Based on soil nature (Parcel “Les Marnée”)
- Based on land clearing (Parcel “Montrachet,” referring to the barren nature of Mont Chauve)
- Based on vineyard exposure (Parcel “Larreys,” meaning “the slope of the hill” in Latin)
- Based on landscape features (Parcel “La Romanée,” referring to the passage of a Gallo-Roman road)
During the 14th and 15th centuries, the Dukes of Burgundy played a crucial role in the commercialization and reputation of the vineyard, which had become a symbol of taste and refinement. To ensure wine quality and avoid mass-market production, they banned the cultivation of Gamay and promoted Pinot Noir. Over time, Gamay gradually returned until the establishment of Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée in 1935, prioritizing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
The promotion of terroir through Burgundy’s Climats is a shining example of success. Several regions worldwide have drawn inspiration from this model to showcase the quality of their wines. The most notable example is Central Otago in New Zealand, with its mosaic of terroirs producing diverse styles of Pinot Noir.
If you ever have the chance to step into one of these “clos” or Burgundy parcels, you might remember all the history that took place right under your feet.