After nearly 150 years of prohibition, Australia is venturing into the production of premium whisky, thanks to the expertise of its Tasmanian distillers. The island is a prodigious source of pure mountain water, offers vast fertile plains for barley cultivation, and seems to be brimming with young talents ready to elevate it to the forefront.
Long cherished by the continent’s top winemakers, especially for its fruit used in the production of sparkling wines, the region is gradually making a name for itself in the growing circle of whisky producers. Proof of this is that one of the country’s few distilleries, Sullivans Cove, has repeatedly earned the highest accolades in the world of spirits.
It was Bill Lark who, in 1992, opened the doors to the island’s first modern distillery. He was followed by Sullivans Cove two years later.
Formerly located in the heart of the island’s capital, in the district from which it takes its name, the distillery is now situated at the outskirts of the city. More and more visitors are venturing to the outskirts of Hobart to visit this remote distillery with growing success.
After facing some setbacks, Sullivans Cove changed ownership in 2004 and was entrusted to Patrick Maguire, who still serves as the master distiller today. It was then that success began to emerge. Or rather, it kicked the doors wide open, as medals have been pouring in since 2007, making it the most awarded whisky in Australia to date. Nothing seems to stop Sullivans Cove, as in 2014, their French Oak HH0525 was crowned the World’s Best Single Malt Whisky by the World Whiskies Awards.
Sullivans Cove and the entire Tasmanian whisky production were subsequently propelled onto the international stage.
But what is the secret to such success?
The barley, 100% “Tassie,” is distilled in the pot still charmingly named Myrtle. The alcohol obtained through double distillation is then reduced to 63.5% ABV and placed in American and French oak barrels that previously held Bourbon and Tawny Port.
The future whisky will rest there for at least 10 years. Once this period has passed, the barrels are carefully tasted, and the best ones are selected to be sold as micro-batches or “single cask” in a limited number of bottles.
Perhaps this is what sets Sullivans Cove apart from the major Scottish whisky producers: the choice to allow each barrel to express itself individually rather than blending them. Or perhaps it is the essence of Tasmania itself that gives Sullivans Cove whiskies their particularly creamy texture.
In any case, enthusiasm is high, as in 2018 their American Oak was once again awarded the World’s Best Single Cask Single Malt by the World Whiskies Awards for their cask HH0351.
In the same year, Patrick Maguire was inducted into the “Whisky Hall of Fame,” the highest individual recognition.
However, be warned—it’s necessary to rise early to have the privilege of tasting this precious liquid that everyone is clamoring for, as only a small number of bottles, hand-filled with care in the warmth of Myrtle, are made available. But the small distillery that’s playing with the big leagues is a victim of its own success and must expand quickly, lest its growing production overflows from its now-too-small premises.
Good news for whisky enthusiasts!